CHINA'S UNSUNG HEROES 中国葡萄酒业的“幕后英雄”
Many people have had a hand in the rise of China's wine scene. Jim Boyce identifies ten significant people who are too often overlooked.
对于中国葡萄酒市场的崛起,许多人都贡献了自己的一份力量。Jim Boyce为各位列举十位“低调”的重要人物。
Lists of China's key wine people tend to repeat. You'll often find mentioned Grace Vineyard owner Judy Chan, consultant Li Demei, Lu Yang MS, Fongyee Walker MW, Silver Heights'winemaker Emma Gao and social media star Wang Shenghan (Lady Penguin). There are a few dozen other regulars, from critics, sommeliers and educators to winery owners to the heads of major producers and importers.
在中国葡萄酒关键人物的名单上,你经常会看到怡园酒庄少庄主陈芳,酿酒顾问李德美,吕杨MS,赵凤仪MW,银色高地酿酒师/葡萄酒生产者高源和社交媒体明星王胜寒(醉鹅娘)的名字。还有从评论家、侍酒师、教育工作者,到酒庄庄主,再到主要生产商和进口商的负责人等几十位常客。
But crucial to the rise of China's wine scene are thousands of unsung heroes who are much less known, especially on the global stage. Here are ten such people who play a wide range of roles and have gone above and beyond.
但对中国葡萄酒市场的崛起至关重要的还有成千上万默默无闻的英雄人物,他们的国际知名度要低得多。以下是10位这样的人物,他们在中国葡萄酒市场中扮演着各种各样的角色,并且出类拔萃。
Zhijun ‘Jim’ Sun 孙志军
A native of Yantai, the birthplace of China's modern wine industry, Sun has written about the alcohol scene for 25 years, including with winechina.com since 2000. His most recent effort is a book about boutique Chinese winery tours.
孙志军来自(山东)烟台,中国现代葡萄酒产业的诞生地。25年来,他一直在撰写有关酒行业的文章,其中包括自2000年以来在winechina.com上发表的文章。他最近的作品是一本关于中国精品酒庄之旅的书。
Sun has a master's degree in Wine Management Science from the OIV and leads seminars, tastings and tours for OIV students visiting China. He has also organised wine contests, festivals and trade fairs in his province. Many visitors will have fond memories of his two-storey wine cellar and event space. It closed in 2017 because of zoning changes, but Sun plans to open a new one soon.
孙先生拥有OIV葡萄酒管理科学硕士学位,并为OIV学生在中国举办研讨会、品酒会和参观活动。他还在本省组织了葡萄酒比赛、节日和交易会。许多游客都会对他的两层酒窖和活动空间留下美好的回忆。由于分区的变化,该公司于2017年关闭,但孙志军计划很快开设一家新公司。
Yean Lee 李衍彦
His 2006 e-mail request to join the harvest at Grace Vineyard in Shanxi put him on a path to becoming chief winemaker. Unlike some of his contemporaries, who focus on Cabernet blends, Lee works with a range of grapes at Grace's Shanxi and Ningxia vineyards, from Marselan to Malbec to Aglianico. He also helped launch the winery's sparkling wine programme.
2006年,Yean通过邮件申请加入山西怡园酒庄,让他走上成为酿酒师的道路。不像同时代其他一些人专注于赤霞珠混酿,Yean在怡园酒庄山西和宁夏的葡萄园培植不同系列葡萄品种,比如马瑟兰、马尔贝克、阿里亚尼考等等。他还帮助启动了怡园酒庄起泡酒的项目。
While Lee might lament that rural Shanxi lacks nasi lemak and other dishes from his native Malaysia, he is keeping Grace fans happy. The fruits of that labour are notable, including a Best in Show for Grace's 2015 Marselan at the Decanter Asia Wine Awards in 2017. And, even more importantly, kudos from consumers.
尽管Yean时常会感叹山西缺少来自它家乡的马来西亚椰浆饭和菜肴,但他却一直坚守在怡园酒庄,为喜欢怡园酒庄的朋友们带来快乐。他的劳动成果是显著的,怡园珍藏马瑟兰2015获得2017年Decanter亚洲葡萄酒大赛的赛事最优白金奖。更重要的是,赢得不少消费者的称赞。
Ma Huiqin 马会勤
You could say the only thing keeping Professor Ma from becoming one of China's best-known wine experts is Ma herself. This indefatigable 20-year veteran has visited the breadth of China's wineries to give marketing advice, monitor grape variety performance and assess vineyard disease. She has partnered on projects with academics from five continents, served as judge and writer for a wide range of contests and publications, and coordinated the Ningxia region's entry into the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV).
你可以说,唯一阻止马会勤教授成为中国最知名葡萄酒专家之一的是她自己。这位不知疲倦的20年业内老将走访了中国各地的葡萄酒庄,提供营销建议,监测葡萄品种表现,评估葡萄园病害。她与来自五大洲的学者合作进行项目研究,为各种竞赛和出版物担任评委和撰写人,并协助宁夏地区加入国际葡萄与葡萄酒组织(OIV)。
But Ma also happily retreats to her lab at China Agricultural University – "I'm a scientist"is her mantra – to focus on molecular biology and a family of graduate students. Maybe Ma's influence will best be measured via the 10,000-plus students, from all subject areas and parts of China, who took her wine appreciation course these past 15 years and, in numerous cases, have gone on to work in the trade.
马会勤很高兴地回到她在中国农业大学的实验室——她的口头禅是“我是一名科学家”——专注于分子生物学和带领一个研究生大家庭。也许衡量马会勤的影响力的最好方式就是通过她带领的这一万多名学生,他们来自中国各个学科领域和分散在各个地区,在过去15年里,他们参加了她的葡萄酒鉴赏课程,他们之中很多人从事了葡萄酒行业。
Julien Boulard 朱利安
The head of Zhulian Wines Consulting, Boulard has taught wine classes for more than a decade, including WSET to Level 3. He's writing his Master of Wine thesis on Marselan, which some call "China's grape". And he's organised high-profile events, from tastings of top local brands to Grand Cru extravaganzas with Andrew Jefford.
作为朱利安葡萄酒咨询公司的负责人,朱利安教授葡萄酒课程已经超过十年,其中包括WSET Level 3。他正在写关于被称为“中国的葡萄”——马瑟兰的葡萄酒硕士论文。他还组织了一些备受瞩目的活动,从顶级本土品牌的品鉴会,到与Andrew Jefford合作举办的特级酒品鉴会。
With much persistence, and an impressively thick beard, Boulard has done this not from a well-known city such as Shanghai or Shenzhen, but from Nanning. It's a second tier city of about 7m people that's closer to Bangkok than Beijing. As someone who knew little of wine before settling there, he embodies the spread of knowledge in China.
朱利安是一位坚持不懈的人,蓄着令人印象深刻的浓密胡须,他的成功并非来自上海或深圳等知名城市,而是来自南宁。这是一个拥有约700万人口的二线城市,作为一个在定居之前对葡萄酒知之甚少的人,他体现了知识在中国的传播。
近日,朱利安(Julien Boulard)通过葡萄酒大师Master of Wine所有阶段考试,获得了葡萄酒大师(MW)称号。
Zhou Shuzhen 周淑珍
Although Ningxia has gone from an unknown region to a global curiosity during the past decade, this noteworthy winemaker has a relatively low profile. Soft-spoken Zhou first dipped her toe into winemaking in the mid-1980s, when she took a course in Hebei province just outside Beijing, at the same time that mega-brand Great Wall was being launched.
尽管在过去的十年里,宁夏从一个不为人知的地区变成了一个令全球好奇的地方,但这位值得瞩目的酿酒师却十分低调。说话温和的周淑珍第一次涉足葡萄酒行业是在上世纪80年代中期,当时她在北京郊外的河北省参加了一门课程,而与此同时,大品牌长城(Great Wall)开始推出。
After working with early Ningxia producers such as Xixia King and former Pernod Ricard partner Guangxia, Zhou has more recently been crucial in helping Ningxia wineries such as Legacy Peak, Kanaan and Jade ascend the ranks of China's best. From elegant creamy Chardonnays to vibrant fruit-packed Cabernets, Zhou's wines have brought prestige to the region.
在与西夏王酒庄等宁夏早期葡萄酒生产商以及保乐力加前合作伙伴广夏合作后,周淑珍最近在帮助Legacy Peak、Kanaan和Jade等宁夏酒庄跻身中国顶级葡萄酒行列方面发挥了关键作用。从优雅的奶油Chardonnays到充满活力的果味Cabernets,周淑珍酿制葡萄酒为该地区带来了声誉。
Tersina Shieh 谢德兰
Any talk of Hong Kong wine influencers invariably turns to the growing number of MWs there. Meanwhile, Shieh just keeps opening bottles. She's helped run programs for Wines of South Africa, Wines of Germany and The Vintage Port Academy and joined harvests at Treaty Port in Shandong and Silver Heights in Ningxia.
任何有关香港葡萄酒影响者的话题,都无一例外地转向越来越多的葡萄酒大师(MW)。与此同时,谢德兰只是不停地打开瓶子。她参与了南非葡萄酒、德国葡萄酒和葡萄酒学院(Vintage Port Academy)的项目管理,并参加了山东通商口岸和宁夏银岭的采收活动。
Most impressive is her commitment to consumers. Shieh has written for sites such as OpenRice and Foodie even though she recognises some wine trade people might dismiss the readers as amateurs. Add her music and wine events, and efforts to get casual restaurant chains to serve wine with set dinners, and Shieh has been a role model for reaching out to casual drinkers.
最令人印象深刻的是她对消费者的承诺。谢德兰曾为OpenRice和Foodie等网站撰稿,尽管她承认,一些葡萄酒行业人士可能会把读者视为业余爱好者而不予理睬。加上她的音乐和葡萄酒活动,以及让休闲连锁餐厅提供葡萄酒套餐的努力,谢德兰已经成为接触休闲饮酒者的榜样。
Zhang Yanzhi 张言志
Given some think he holds a key to China's fine wine future, Zhang has quite a low profile. He has worn many hats: as a winemaker, as a representative for Jean-Pierre Moueix, as the portfolio builder for China's first wine investment fund and, more recently, as founder of the distributor Easy Cellar, which helped spread Penfolds in China.
虽然一些人认为他掌握着开启中国葡萄酒未来的钥匙,但是张言志相当低调。他身兼数职:酿酒师、Jean-Pierre Moueix的代表、中国首只葡萄酒投资基金的投资组合构建者,以及最近帮助奔富在中国扩张的分销商Easy Cellar的创始人。
All that experience will help in his new role as head of Xige Estate (Pigeon Hill), a 25,000 ㎡cutting-edge winery with access to 600ha of Ningxia's oldest vines. The goal? To create a respected national brand, a kind of Penfolds, that changes Chinese consumers'lukewarm opinion of local wines and helps boost the industry as a whole.
所有这些经验将有助于他担任西鸽酒庄(鸽子山)新负责人。西鸽酒庄是一座占地2.5万平方米的前沿酿酒厂,拥有宁夏600公顷最古老的葡萄园。目标吗?打造一个受人尊敬的民族品牌,类似奔富(penfold),改变中国消费者对本土葡萄酒的不温不火的看法,促进整个行业的发展。
Alberto Pascual 阿尔贝托·帕斯库尔
Passion ranks among the most overused trade words but Pascual embodies it so much that calling his Spanish wine-focused company Pasión International is perfect. He pursues a quality rather than quantity game, with China allotments for some wines counted in hundreds or even dozens of bottles.
激情是最常被滥用的贸易词汇之一,但帕斯库尔充分体现了这一点,因此把他的西班牙葡萄酒公司命名为Pasion International再合适不过了。他追求的是质量而不是数量,有些葡萄酒在中国的供货甚至只有数百瓶数十瓶。
Pascual's enthusiasm is relentless, from writing all-caps social media posts saturated with reviews, scores and exclamation marks to loading a scooter with a dozen-plus bottles and a Coravin machine for day-long visits to current and potential clients. At major tastings, he's the guy with mussed hair, an extra dress shirt button undone and the persuasiveness to make you try a sixth, seventh or eighth wine before moving to the next table.
帕斯库尔的热情是不间断的,从写满评论、分数和感叹号的全大写社交媒体帖子,到给一辆摩托车装上十几瓶酒和一台Coravin机器,以便对当前和潜在客户进行为期一天的访问。在重要的品酒会上,他是那种头发乱蓬蓬的人,衬衫扣子还没扣上,很有说服力地让你在去下一桌之前品尝第六、第七或第八种葡萄酒。
Zhao Desheng 赵德升
Like a skilled player on a football team that never makes the World Cup, Zhao has quietly toiled at Domaine Franco-Chinois (DFC), just outside Beijing, which began as a joint French-Chinese scientific project 20 years ago. DCF was privatised in 2010 and makes some of China's finest wines but, frustratingly, they are not yet on the market.
就像一个从未参加过世界杯的足球队有经验的球员一样,赵德升在北京郊外的中法庄园(Domaine Franco-Chinois, DFC)默默耕耘。20年前,中法合作的一个科研项目启动了中法合作项目。DCF于2010年私有化,生产一些中国最好的葡萄酒,但令人沮丧的是,它们尚未上市。
Not that Zhao isn't busy. Along with DFC, he works with the winery's sibling project, Canaan, which has experimented with grape varieties including Gewürztraminer. He's caught between powerful management biding its time and a trade pleading for the wines to go on sale. Once those bottles are available – perhaps this year? – expect Zhao to rise to greater prominence.
赵德升并不是不忙。除了DFC,他还与该酒厂的兄弟项目迦南(迦南)合作,该项目已经对包括琼瑶浆(Gewürztraminer)在内的葡萄品种进行了试验。他陷入了左右为难的境地,一方面是强大的管理层在等待时机,另一方面是一场要求葡萄酒上市销售的交易。希望随着这些酒上市,赵德升能获得更大的成功,也许就是今年?
Chen Shu 陈舒
It's hard to define the role that Chen "Kiki" Shu plays in Ningxia. She has served as a translator (English, Spanish and Mandarin), tour guide, event planner, sympathetic ear and more. Perhaps the most crucial contribution this outgoing and helpful Ningxia native makes is in her role as unofficial diplomat for regional wine authorities.
陈“琪琪”在宁夏扮演的角色很难界定。她曾担任翻译(英语、西班牙语和普通话)、导游、活动策划、富有同情心的听众等等。这位性格外向、乐于助人的宁夏人所做的最重要的贡献,或许是她作为地区葡萄酒主管部门的非官方外交官所发挥的作用。
Chen has leveraged her cultural know-how to "save face" when dealing with the rising tide of foreign visitors, whether that means caring for VIPs or making connections to local trade people. When a group of foreign winemakers faced losing storage space for wine they made as part of a government project, Chen even stepped up and moved thousands of bottles to her family's warehouse.
陈利用自己的文化知识,在应对日益增长的外国游客潮时“保全面子”,无论是照顾贵宾还是与当地贸易人士建立联系。作为政府项目的一部分,一群外国酿酒师面临着失去葡萄酒储藏空间的问题,陈甚至挺身而出,将数千瓶葡萄酒搬到了她家的仓库。
From winemakers to academics to importers to managers, these ten symbolise those who make the wine industry more dynamic.
从酿酒师到学者,从进口商到管理者,这十位人物象征着那些让葡萄酒行业更具活力的人。
There are many more, such as Torres China managing partner Alberto Fernández, the "last man standing" of those who ran key distributors including ASC and Summergate 15 years ago; Willa Yang, who until recently helmed the China program for Wine Australia during that country's meteoric rise; and David Jiang, founder of Wine 100, which runs wine contests, festivals and tours.
这样的例子还有很多,比如桃乐丝中国(Torres China)管理合伙人费尔南德斯(Alberto Fernandez),他是15年前执掌ASC和Summergate等关键分销商的“最后一位常青藤”;杨薇拉(Willa Yang),在澳大利亚迅速崛起的过程中,她直到最近才主持了澳大利亚葡萄酒的中国项目;还有“葡萄酒100强”(Wine 100)的创始人姜大卫(David Jiang)。该公司经营葡萄酒比赛、节日和旅游。
There's also Frederic Choux of importer DCT in Dalian, Ma Li of her eponymous shops in Beijing and Galia Rautenberg of retailer De'Vine in Nanjing, who are blending wine with lifestyle across the country.
大连进口商DCT的弗雷德里克•楚(Frederic Choux)、北京同名商店的马丽(Ma Li)以及南京零售商德万(De 'Vine)的加里娅•劳滕贝格(Galia Rautenberg)也在将葡萄酒与中国各地的生活方式相融合。
They might not get as much attention as some but are all important to China's maturing wine scene.
他们可能尚未受到太多关注,但对中国成熟葡萄酒市场的发展都十分重要。